MUĞLA

The province of Muğla, covering an area that has the most famous of Turkey’s tourism centres within its boundaries, is more of a region that holidaymakers "pass through" while travelling to one of its famous towns. It is not fully known whether equating the concept of a holiday with the sea that makes rare places not on the coast locations little frequented by tourists. Certainly this is understandable but we would advise you to spare at least one day for Muğla. Those who base themselves in the centre of Muğla but who plan short trips to nearby destinations as well as visiting the city itself can expect a very full few days.

The centre of Muğla extends over the plain stretching from the foot of the Asar or Hisar (Castle) Mountain and is surrounded by Karadağ (Black Mountain), Kızıldağ (Red Mountain), Masadağ (Table Mountain) and Hamursuz Dağları (Unleavened Mountains). The city, which was captured by the Selçuks in 1080, was recovered by the Byzantines in 1096 and then taken over by Turkish Kingdom of Menteşeoğulları in 1284. The city was in turn seized by the Ottomans in 1390. The old part of the city, known as Saburhane in the Ottoman era, was a district where Greeks and Turks lived together on friendly terms. However, even after the population exchange in 1924, resulting in the Greeks leaving the city, this part of Muğla retained its old atmosphere.

Some of the old houses in this district have undergone restoration by their new owners. Houses owned by the famous architect Cengiz Bektaş and well-known journalist İlhan Selçuk are among those that were restored.

The City Tour

The city centre boasts many beautiful examples of civil architecture. First of all, park your car on one of the streets that lead to the central square where the Governor’s Office is located, walk for 100 metres and enter the Arasta (Historical Bazaar). The Arasta is as if it was frozen at the beginning of the 20th century, with its saddle-maker, shoe-maker, barber shop, hardware store, small businesses, small restaurants and a fountain at its centre. In the bazaar there are also shops that sell traditional souvenirs as well as the famous Muğla woven material. If you feel hungry, walk into any of the small worker’s restaurants. On their menu you would come across traditional local dishes such as ekşili döş dolması (stuffed sour meat) and keşkek (wheat boiled with minced meat), which are among the delicacies you must try. After your meal, you should go to Helvacı Tahsin and do not forget to try the local tahin helva (sweetmeat of sesame seeds and molasses) and the Çıtırmık (a local dessert). While you wander in the bazaar the old Clock Tower will catch your attention. Built in 1895 by the Russian master Fulvari, the tower still carries his signature and the clock on the tower is still working.

The most beautiful samples of the "Historical Muğla Houses" are in the old district of Saburhane, just above the power station that in turn is above the Arasta. The main religious structures in the city are the Kurşunlu Camii (Mosque) (1493), the Pazar Yeri Mosque (1842), and the Şahidi Mosque in the centre. In the Şeyh Bedrettin district there is the Seyh Camii, built by Şeyh (Sheik) Bedrettin in (1565) with its minaret added in the early 19th century, and the Ulu Camii (the Great Mosque) which was built by the Menteşe Bey (Emir of the Turkish tribal kingdom) İbrahim in 1334 opposite of the electric station.

The Ottoman-built inns of Yarım Han, Yağcılar Han and the Konakaltı are also worth seeing. The Yağcılar Han, which has been restored and is still in use, is a frequent stopping point for tourists. The 250 year old Konakaltı Han is presently serving as the Konakaltı Culture Centre. The Vakıflar Hamamı (Turkish Bath), built by İbrahim the Menteşe Bey in 1334 as a part of the foundation to support the Ulu Mosque, after being restored has become a focal point for Muğla locals as well as domestic and foreign tourists.